I am possibly about to commit an act of foodie-heresy. I think Borough Market is massively overrated.
I love markets. I grew up visiting Surrey Street market in Croydon every Saturday. Surrey Street market is a proper market where you can buy cheap fruit and veg, some of which may be on the turn. There are the usual stalls selling mobile phone covers and bottles of Radox as well food stalls. There are no olives.
Growing up my father knew the stall holders and he gave many of them nicknames. I remember the guy who sold potatoes up next to the Goose on the Market was called Jesus because he bore a fleeting resemblance to Robert Powell.
So Borough Market should be a real treat for me. It’s a food market on steroids. As well as the traditional fruit and vegetables you can buy cheese, beer, wine, bread, cakes and ice cream. When I was there over the weekend I tried a delicious piece of comté, some so-so Turkish delight, a nice organic apple juice and some prosecco.
Something about this market doesn’t ring true for me. The food is very expensive and on a Saturday it was heaving so perhaps this put me in a bad mood. Borough Market epitomises a lot of things that I don’t like about the British foodie movement. It can be elitist, over-priced and offers an unrealistic approach to shopping and eating on a daily basis.
After a visit to Boough Market most people would need to go to another market to buy the bulk of their groceries but the reality is that they probably go to a supermarket instead. Nothing wrong with that but doesn’t it rather undermine the whole point of supporting these producers. How is Borough Market any different to a deli or Harrods food hall in this respect? It isn’t accessible and it doesn’t change the way the majority of people eat.
On Saturday I had a tomato, rocket and ham sandwich that cost £3.50. The mark-up on this was enormous and ultimately it was a perfectly ok sandwich but with not so much as a smear of butter. For £3.50 I need butter, a lot of butter.
I also had two scoops of ice cream from a stall which attracted me with its unusual flavours. Unfortunately the Honey & Lavender ice cream tasted like someone had accidentally spilt some potpourri into vanilla ice cream. Lavender buds actually taste horribly bitter, not pleasant.
I was excited to find some mini canelé after making my friends walk around for about an hour looking for them. They were 3 for £1 and looked more like little mushrooms than the canelé I am used to. I have to say these were dry, maybe because they were so small. My quest to find a canelé fix in London continues.
I know I shouldn’t criticise Borough Market. Like most people there on Saturday I was lapping up a good old bit of food porn because sometimes the Sunday supplements aren’t enough. But instead of getting a foodie fix I ended up feeling annoyed by its organic, sanitised version of a market. I’d rather visit Surrey Street any day.